Bangkok- AGAIN

SO here in Bangkok again I decided to stay near to Koh San road area to really see what it was like and find cheaper hostels. However it was Chinese new year so everywhere was full or only had very expensive rooms left. I eventually found a place after going to 10 places with my bags.

In the morning I switched acomodation to a dirt cheap place. Koh San Road is such a tourist haven, the only locals are the stall holders. It was fun though. I met a girl over lunch and then I wandered round by myself taking it all in- so many nice things you could buy- then for dinner I bumped into the girl again and we met some other people. We decided to go out. After buying a musical elephant guiro esk thing and bracelets of a funny craxy Thai lady we went dancing- free cocktails for girls- this was so much fun as I met 2 great Thai girls who I danced withall night.

The next day I woke up late so missed my meeting time with the girls again but went anyway. SWe were meeting at a pool in the hotel nearby but they weren't there. I spent a couple of hours by the pool anyway then later... Siobhan arrived.

We went out for welcome drinks, had a little more than we thought drinking the local beer and the most garlicky garlic bread imaginable. The next day we left to go to Ayuthaya. We got ourselves to the bus station and made our way on the fun local bus!

The rest of Cambodia...

So after the temples I had a day I didn't really do much until getting the bus over to Sihanoukville. Unfortunately the pick iup driver was 2 hours late after we had been waiting since 0700! We got to the bus station and got the bus however it mean I missed the connection bus to Sihanoukville from Phnom Penh so stayed with the French couple for the night. We wandered around Phnom Penh along the river and ate a kebab! We tried to be cultured but the food was expensive everywhere we'd looked. We wandered some more, round the temple and outside the National Museum. There are some very nice places here! The next day I went to Sihanoukville. After meeting a girl on the bus we tried to find accomodation but unfortunately everywhere was full except one bed in the Monkey Republic (where I stayed) and beds in Utopia. Utopia is a COMPLETE dive. It's quite good fun to drik for a little bit but other than that, not nice to sleep in! Monkey was quite nice though there we beach shacks made of wicker and wood however the dorm, the door didin't close so it was mosquito heaven. After being bitten alive on the first night I got up and bought a mosquito net from the town the next day. Serendipity beach was the beach I stayed at however this beach is full of bars all along with very little sand that hasn't been taken over. That night though I went out with the dorm people (especially two crazy Preston girls) and we went to JoJo's which was literally on the sea. You had to walk through the water to get in the front porch. After painting ourselves with UV and doing the 'free' bar run- using vouchers all along so paying nothing or very little in every bar- cheapest night ever! We then headed to the main beach bars where people were jumping through hoops of fire- not a good idea whilst drunk- so a guy had an accident, but NOONE went over, everyone kept partying even his mates. Just myself and one girl went over after realising noone was helping. He'd burnt all the skin off his foot and some off his leg but luckily for his he was drunk and not really feeling the pain so we found his girlfriend and packed him off to hospital. The area was naturally stunning but was a bit ruined by all the building work right on the waterfront- I suppose it's inevitable though. The next day we'd met a really nice guy, and went to a beach further away called Sokha beach. This was a privately owned beach which we didn't realise and had to pay. HOWEVER it was the quitest most beautiful beach, a clean view of the sea and we got to use the hotel pool. The sea was the warmest sea I've ever gone in, you could just sit and lay and not get cold at all. Amazing day. After more eating, drinking and beaching with the guys I left to Phnom Penh.

I stayed in Okay Guesthouse. The first night I stayed in a broken bed in a corridor which was their 'dorm' room so moved into a room by myself which had no windows or anything so was a bit of a sauna but still nice enough. I spent a lot of time alone in Phnom Penh which was quite nice after such a manic Sihanoukville. I got up the first day and walked to the S-21 Touel Sleng Museum (the Kmer Rouge main prison). This was such a humbling experience. After reading, 'First they Killed my Father' (good book) I knew a bit more about the war. Such a horrid regime which we know nothing about in the west! I then got a moto (loving riding the bikes) to the Killing Fields- where every single prisoner of the Touel Sleng was taken and killed. Mass graves everywhere with material from clothing still visible coming out of the ground or stuck in bits of wood and rocks. The worst parts was the huge memorial they have built which is filled to the top with the skulls of the victims. But then you discover the killing tree- this tree was used as they flung babies by their arms into it to smash their skulls. It was a very hard day. I don't understand why we don't learn about it inthe West though? After this I went to the National Museum for some nicer thoughts, here they have a lot of the old Ankor statues and anime scultures. Interesting and in a very nice building.

The hostel showed films constantly so their was alwas something to do to kill time. Luckily through perfect timing Grace had replied to my e-mail and I rang to organise to meet the family the next day. I went swimming with the girls and Grace whilst Paul played basketball, all at a local newly built school. It was lovely to finally meet them, the girls were beautiful and bright. Then we went to their house and they filled me in on Cambodia and what it was like to live and speak the language and culture- very interesting. I also got to try the BEST fish rice dish (can't remember the name) I've ever had made by their house help lady. So good. Then Paul rode me home on his scooter.

Flying out the next day I wandered town and visited the 'Daughters' foundation which was an amazing place teaching young women to get out of the sex trade and teaching them professions and giving them a fair wage so they learn to respect themselves again. A lot of the women were raped or told to become sex workers by their families as they could not marry. Shame and loosing face is the main drive here which effects everything they do. I then visited the trust giving trades to street children and bought some of their goods. Great schemes, definitely worth seeing. I was with another lady who bought me a drink in this posh hotel with a view of the river, then I went to get my flight. Beware though, the airport has a sneaky tax of $25 which you have to pay which I did not know about, making my flight not so cheap! But I needed to fly in order to get a 30day visa again.

Cambodia

20/01/2011

After a long bus ride from Bangkok, through the border- which took forever, not very well organised- we eventually got to Siem Reap however our tou man who spke very good English to all our annoyance as he understood everything we said decided to take us to his hostel rather than the bus station where we were meant to end up so I missed the ride to the hostel I had booked and put a deposit down for. I had met some lovely people on th bus so we decided to stay here as it was 20:00 and we didn't know where we were. I felt safe as we were all together. I and another French couple got put in the rubbish part of the hostel whilst my Dutch friends- Teun and Evi (said Avi) and Heiko (German)- got the luxurious part. We went for dinner down the road at a very local resaurant eating for $2. Good to be with the locals.

21/01/2011

We moved rooms in the morning. Free breakfast consisting of some sort of egg and baguette (no salt) which is good. The guide then insisted on bein our TukTuk driver. We visited Tonle Sap Lake to see the floating markets and floating village of Chong Kneas. Cambodia however is NOT cheap and they charge a tourist tax on everything, so it was $12 to go on a boat to the village. It was beautful though. Very interesting to see how people lived. The guide told us that the village moves dependant on whether it i the wet or dry season to follow the fish and the crops. They live without most basics. It's a very hard life. It was quite difficult to see The lake is beautiful thought. Along the way we saw a floating Catholic Chapel anda floating Sports School as well as houses on stilts along the water's edge. They are que savvy to the tourist now though an boats passed trying to sell things, one a little girl jumped on the boat from hers to sell us drinks. They work from such a young age here. Back at the hostel we wandered into town attempting to find an alternative hostel, but failed. SO HOT here. I think Cambodia must be hotter than Bangkok. We ate for $1.50 at a local restaurant, lots of noodles and rice! In the evening we took the TukTuk to the Temples of Angkor to buy or $20 ticket. Then we watched the sunset from the Phnom Bakheng as it is the tallest with the best view over the Temples and the area. It was like a festival though,thousands of people- especally huge tour groups of Chinese and Korean that just get in the way! It was a beautiful sunset and the walk up the mountain was good.

22/01/2011

Temples Day... our TukTuk (who we are a bit fed up wth by now as he constantly tries to charge us more) driver took us to the Temples. We saw Angkor Wat, Banteay Kdei, Ta Prohm (the set of Tomb Raider) and Angkor Thom. Ta Prohm was interesting the trees weregrowing within the walls and taking over it. Angkor Thom was the most beautiful with a Buddha face on each side of every tower. It was in a pyramid like shape with vertical worn away stone stairs. There was also the Elephant Wall which surrounds it with elephants carved all the way along. This place was huge. We also took the hottest day to go so we were all shattered and empty.We ate locally again, this time for $1. So cheap for the food in the local areas.

I forgot to mention: Angkor Wat- I was attacked by a monkey which tried to climb up my back and nibble at my t-shirt! It was fun though, I got to see a lot of monkeys, they were ridiculously tame though, although some tourists tried to hand feed them etc and got a few aggressive faces! Idiots. I have also tried a lot of new fruit that I've never seen before- Black Eyed Fruit, Star Fruit, Dragon Fruit, Black Tnote and Turan. Black Tnote and Black eyed fruit are very tasty! They also have strange tiny bananas that are more yellow and sweeter!

Bangkok

15/01/2011

Bangkok airport is VERY nice, clean and huge! Also had a positive bathroom trip so all in all thought things were looking up. Got through customs after trying to hide that I was from the UK as a yob dad made scene in the airport, very embarrassing. I got the bus to the hostel but did NOT feel good so slept. I eventually found the hostel, bu as I was discovering, the Thai people do not speak English! Ahh... they wouldn't let me check in yet but they let mesit in the lobby and use the facilities :s. Eventually  got to the room, really nice and clean- complete contrast to Mumbai. I tried to sleep all day. A lovely Chinese girl, YingYa Li was staying in the room, she had stayed at the hostel for over a month! Then two guys, Kevin Applegate and Nick Zimmermann arrived. I was very antisocial and tried to sleep. Nick had taught TEFL in Japan for tw years and Kevin was teaching in Korea for his second year which was really interesting. I did nothing all day.

16/01/2011

I woke up early thinking  felt better so,followng Ying's advice I went to the weekend marke. AMAZING! Thousands of stalls selling everything you could imagine. However it was very easy to get lost. Starting to feel iffy I went to eat. The staff didn't speak English or have a menu so they ignored me, just walked away. These lovely Thai girls next to me ordered for me without asking, so kind. They then told me how toeat with the spoona dn chopsticks properly. They had ordered me the spicy one though- and it was spicy! Burn! After 3 times of asking and hearing 'no' I paid then wandered a bit more. Food had not helped so trid to leave the market, which took over an hour as I got lost! Running to the toilet and found a new style of toilet, it was a drop toilet but was half raised so you're meant to stand on it and balance- not easy! After the subway back I went to bed, the boys bought me chocolate and water which was lovely.

17/01/2011

I felt better. I woke to Ying correcting Nick on his knowledge of the history of Jim Thompson (the guy who got Thailand into the silk trade giving them a huge export), 'check your history' she said waltzing out of the room. Very funny. Kevin and I went out. The 53 bus, featuring the lovely Thai service (just a hint of sarcasm) and China Town. Arriving we got some sort of meat on a stick, which I don't really want to think about too much, although it wasting king of like pork?  Wat Pho- a huge laying down gold Buddha with mother of pearl decorated feet is what we saw. I liked it a lot. The grounds had so many buildings all covered in gold and shiny coloured glass. I also larnt- accordin to Kevin- that the nipples of the Buddhas change dependant on the ear and country they came from, some had pointy ones, some had none. Their arm postion also signifies different meanings. They also have 240 commandments!! Must be hrd to follow that! We then got some fruit, water melon- yum- then some lunch fro a street seller who makes you omelette in front of you. They laugehed at me when I tried their home made suace- SO hot! We ate in the shade in front o the river and watched a Thai man at work- covered head to toe andhis face despite the heat. He was watering th lawn over ad over, then the sprinklers cae on, strange, they obviously have water to waste. We could see te Temple of Dawn over the river. Walking to the Grand Palace at each entrance there was the 'Tourism Police'telling us we weredressed inapporapriatey or that it was a Buddhist holiday and the Temple was closed. Each one was a scam, lukily Kevin knew this as I belived them and wa going to get i the TukTuk to go on a tour. Lots of people did fall fr it though but we continued walking and got in the main entrance. We had to hire clothes- they looked like prison outfits! The Palace hd some nice elephant statues. It was huge, hard to describe!- See the pictures! When we left we bought what we thought was lemon and lime juice (Miranda Green), but was fluorescent green and disgusting so we threw it and got coke. I started to feel funny so we got the bus back. Chatting away we didn't see the station to get offand ended up further away then we had started, woops. So we got off to go back. Turns out the bus didn't pass the station that's why we didn't see it!

18/01/11

Today was laundry day, I washed everythingby had on the roof but unfortunately my Ali Baba pans ran and made all my white stuff a shade of green in places! :( Ying, Kevin and I planned our trips. I planned Cambodia.

19/01/2011
Got my Cambodian VISA in the morning thanks to the help of a lovely Thaigirl who I met on a bench who was going to the Laos Embassy. We got on a bus- but it was more like an animal truck with open sides. After the VISA I went to the hostel, and napped. A new girl called Vikki (from Nottingham) had arrived in my room, it was her first day so we went on the bus to Khao San Road which as we passed China Town (SO busy) it took 1 1/2 hours. Quite dissappointed in this so-called road that's meant to be THE place for travellers. It had rubbish markets and was just filled with bars and Western food places. It's basically just a good night out to meet other travellers. I'm glad I didn't get a hostel here. Altogether that night, Vikki, Kevin and Kevin's other TEFL friends who had come to meet him we all wen for dinner in China Town. I love Dim Sung and duck!! So tasty! Then we drank a little in front of the China Gate.

The catch up on India...

09/01/2011

Today I went to the Haji Ali again with two guys, one American. We walked a lot but one guy didn't drink much water so got sick on the street. We saw a lot more of the Mahalmaxmi area and the central city with all the high rises and Bollywood money. Lots of people wanted a photo with us as we're the token 'white people'. I'm quite used to being called white girl now as my name! Strange!!We saw the 'washing town' where literally the whole area does the cities' washing!It was huge. I bought a little purse thing of a cute street girl as she spoke very good English and was a bit cheeky. We ate a lovely street fried potato spicy thing and returned to the hostel and met a new lovely Italian lady. She was at the end of her trip but came for dinner with us at the shopping mall. This is a huge clean shiny complex, a complete contrast to the rest of Mumbai (again Bollywood millionaires). We had an Indian buffet which was served so fast. Each waiter had a 'dish' which and a symbol which they would give across the room to one another when a dish is empty. Very good service. Completely different from the rest of the slow and relaxed service in India. Then the Italian girl and I looked at the most gorgeous saris- I wish I had an Indian wedding to go to so I could wear one!

10/01/2011
Today Raj slept in so in true Indian stlye we left at 0730 instead of 0630 to go the the Temple. Raj goes to the temple every Monday so he took 3 of us with him.It was a bizarre (put that in just for you John!) experience.It was in the mountains, and first off we stopped at the 'resting place' where we had Chai Tea (love that stuff) and met some very local mountain people. We then headed up the mountain, rested again at a random stop where I met a boy who lives LITERALLY in the forest with the animals as part of a tribe. He was wild! The mountain spruced-up TukTuk took us up to the Temple finally where I observed a 'service' (I don't know what the proper term would be) and walked to the very top 'resting spot'. I had a Tika put on my forehead too. Here I saw soooo many monkeys just playing in the trees! They then continued to shop us many beauty spots of the mountain. The views were amazing and the spots would have been beautiful if the Indian people didn't litter EVERYWHERE. You'd think in their Holy beauty spots they wouldn't spoil it but yes, there were plates, bags, plastics- all kinds of everything, I don't think they have bins?? Very strange. We also went to the 'Dada's' house and ate with the people there. It was really nice curry and we had to eat with our hands making your palm a scoop. I got a bit messy, Raj was laughing at me.

Back at the hostel I paid 700rps for the day (about 10pound).Then I took a TukTuk to the Dadar station to get my night train to Goa (Thivim). Bit of a nightmare, the TukTuk driver stopped halfway and said he cannot go over to Dadar (first time he told me) but that his friend in the taxi that we met could. He wanted basically double. I argued as he was trying to rip off the tourist again and eventually I paid the right amount!.
11/01/2011

Anjuna, Goa... Quite spacious and friendly hostel (Evershine) and I met two girls who were just leaving who explained  a few locals tips like the cost of water as, again, the white tourist tends to get a higher price. I have become quite used to being called 'white girl' which is a bit odd. I wandered to the bank being accosted along the way by shop owners who physically grab your wrist, "'I give you good price'' was the standard line too. I got cornered and bought some nice jewelry (all very very cheap in pounds). It's a very hippie area so I got myself some Ali Baba pants which are like genie trousers! I met 3 lovely New Zealand girls- Anna, Rebecca and Clare who invited me to the bech. Here we were accosted by little girls selling stuff, they lay their wares out on your leg so you can't move, we bought the odd thing but then asked them to leave us however their was a swarm of about 8 of them so eventually WE had to leave to get rid. One girl was really nice though called Lily. Before this though we found a stray puppy (it had a lead- hence we could tell it from all the wild dogs that roam) and so Anna (vet nurse) took it to the local animal shelter. There were also cows roaming free in the streets- which I quite liked! It was very sad though seeing so many young girls on the street. For dinner i had Paneer Palak and two mojitos- this is where the beginnings of my relationship with the bathroom started!

12/01/2011
Wednesday Flea Market Day... Feeling horrendous I got up and met the girls, we walked to Cafe Diogo (meaning Pussy Cat) for breakfast and I watched the others eating amazing breakfasts while I just about managed toast. At the market I was collared by a drum seller who could see the want for  a drum in my eyes so he didn't leave me alone and I ended up buying one (quite cheaply) hpwever had a problem as the seller told me it was Mango wood (it was not) so ended up having to trade it thanks to the help of a local western man who obviously lived there as he spoke their language, they had to switch once they couldn't hide behind the language barrier- but then I had the dilemma of what to do with it- it's in the post to you my lovely parents! The market was huge and hot so we left for the beach. As most traders were at the market it was relatively quiet. We were however, accosted by lovely Lily who entrusted us with her shop when the police came and she had to hide. We chatted to her and she told us of her life and her friends. She was living away from her family with her boss and he takes half of everything she earns. Not good! I then made the first studid mistake, taking my malaria pills without food- within 10mins I was being sick on the beach (yak) so we headed for food at the same place again but I didn't eat much.

13/01/2011
Last day Goa. I haven't quite learnt how to use the clock grandparents (Scarth) bought me so I slept in, luckily the girls stayed close so I could find them. I felt a little better. I ate a Goan breakfast which was really nice, a spicy omelette with pickled dressing- VERY spicy, and what were effectively soft Tattie scones! We then all went to the shop of the man who had helped Anna with the puppy the day before to get Henna. I had to go for money and to post my drum though so the man offered to take me and I had my first moped ride!! Loved it, I want one hehe! A very complicated post office system, nothing is easy or explained well in India as far as I can tell. They sewed up the bow. Back at the shop we saw the girl who the previous day explained she was engaged to be married since she was 12, doesn't know anything about the man and won't meet him until her wedding day and how once married that was it. If she didn't do it her parents would literally kill her. Very difficult. TO symbolise their new marriage the woman wears a toe ring and also paints their parting red. On the beach we saw a 22 year old girl with 3 kids, 2 live with her family in the north and she carries the young on in toe. Very difficult life. We relaxed on the beach with a curry- quite a surreal experience but I ate a very nice vegetable massala and then the girls had to leave to get their bus. I then just relaxed at the hostel and as I was waiting for the taxi to pick us up to catch my night bus, loads of people arrived and suddenly the hostel had life! Gutted!

14/01/2011
Arrive in Mumbai early. A TukTuk driver took my bag as I got off the bus and told me it was 200rps to my hostel. Now I know where I am and I am 3mins away by TukTuk so I argue with him as he drives (I had to go as he took my bag) until he went down to 100rps but I made him stop and drop me off by which time I am around the corner however didn't know the way well enough to walk. I coller another TukTuk eventually that agrees to tae me for 20rps (by now this is more than it should be anyway) and he drops me after about 1min around the corner, easiest 20rps he ever made. BEWARE they try to rip you off at every turn! I met nicenew people at the hostel (Raj lets me leave my bag and shower at the hostel). One of the group was a propr Jordy lad- typical Englishman abroad type- and we head to town. I apparently become the tour guide as they are all lost sheep who seem scared by all the people nd don't know where to go. We saw Colaba and Fort, I saw some markets I hadn't seen before and had a really nice lunch. We then headed to watch a Bollywood film. It's like going back in time. The cinema is an old thetre/cinema hall kind of place. You buy your ticket (ridiculously cheap) and then wait. Eventually they let you through yet another pointless security gate (they beap but noone stops you) but in true Indian styleeveryone barges and crushes through this one door- not nice! We then find we have hour an hour until it starts AND seat numbers so there is no need whatsoever for a surge trough the door. Strange part of th culture. They all stand and sing the national anthem before the film which was quite a strane experience. The film was 2 and 1/2 hours long, we left in the interval. We met lovely Indian guy who explained about the story (as it was all foreign with no subtitles) and we had guessed right! We got the train back and a guy showed us which platform to go to an to go on the slowtrain as we would be cruched on the fast- and we definitely would after seeing it for ourselves. It as rush hour at the other side so TukTuks tried to royally rip up off charging 200rps for a 20rps journey. Thenice Indian guy we had met then walked us to or hostel insisting it was 7mins away whe I knew from walking before it was 1/2 hour but we went as h wanted to help however he clearly didn't know where the hsotel was so I ended uyp having to lead near the end as he kept asking others on the street for directions. Funny. After some help from the hostellier, they got me a TukTuk to the airport for 30rps after they tried to charge me 200rps again, I felt better as the hostellier walked away just like I had been doing so  didn't feel I had been rude anymore. The airport was busy, an Inidan man in front who was a diamond distributor (iI have his business card) put my bag on his trolley as there was a long wait. We talked then he wanted to sit next to me (eek) but luckily the lady checking us in didn't do as he asked and we sat separately. The security Mumbai airport is AWFUL, anyone could get through it quite easily. Women and men are separated but the men get 8 security gates, the women, 1. So it took forever. The man bought me KFC- literally insisted and would not let me get my own. It was Indian style KFC which subsequently, after being then forced to eat on the plane again, I regretted as I did not feel well.

Sorry

Sorry I'm bad at catching - I will do a big splurge soon!

The first day...

So the hostel owner Raj at Anjali Inn is SO helpful, hd gave me loads of advice on where to go and booked me a train ticket. I met some lovely people at breakfast Tom, Chun Kwangju-Hyund (Ray) as we call him and my room mate Sue- both from Korea. Tom went to Edinburgh Uni too! Small world. AND I'll be starring as an extra in a Bollywood film tomorrow 0630 start, with the star Shahr-rukh- Khan. Woop. We all went to Calaba together, saw the gateway to india, MANY street sellers and the Taj Mahal Hotel where we had drinks served by the lively Mistry. Then we took a taxi- an Anbassador car- to the Haji Ali Misque that is built in the water out to sea where we saw the sunset. We then took s taxi after I broke my little toe back to the hostel but due to crazy, and I mean crazy driving along with a million cars it took one and a half hours for 400 rupees - basically £5.50. Three times less than the Kingfisher beers we had in the posh hotel.